remember how we ate all our meals with chico?: or, our time in calcutta
July 18, 2010 — genvessel
rickshaw rides in kolkata as we walk to mother house
Clearly, there are elements of our time in Calcutta that defy words. At a later date, I plan on highlighting some of those elements in their own post. To give you an overview, however, is appropriate for this post.
Kolkata, as Calcutta is now called, is the capital of West Bengal. The commercial capital of East India, the metropolitan area has a population of around 15 million. During the time of the Raj, it served as the capital and was regarded as a second London of sorts. There were times I felt like I was in a British Victorian city – the same architecture, similar street names. But at the same time, it’s distinctly Indian. Life happening on the street and rickshaws being pulled amidst the rest of the culture. One of the best ways I can describe it is this: Imagine Times Square in the 80s and 90s – life happening everywhere and stepping over people to get into restaurants. That’s Kolkata. The slums, of course, are a different ballgame. 25% of the city’s 6 million live in slums. I walked through some of them today to get to the home I’m working at and they were every bit as bad as your imagination tells you they are. Children – naked or partially clothed – running everywhere, women doing laundry on the side of the road, men dealing glue to huff so people forget how hungry they are … these are all realities of life in a slum.
We spent our time living at the Fairlawn Hotel on Sudder Street, working at one of Mother’s houses and eating at the Blue Sky Cafe. We spent five days in this fascinating, bustling city and I loved it. I loved that we were there long enough to have a routine and long enough to know people in the neighborhood. I love that we bought water at the same place every morning and that we could walk to the coffee shop on Park Ave. I know several of my teammates who hated Kolkata and it’s frenzy and they were not sad to leave. I was. I feel unfinished with Kolkata – hoping to go back and spend more time collecting stories of natives and expats alike.
We’ll do our brief photo tour and then stay tuned for next time when we’ll talk about Missionaries of Charity, Mother Theresa and how those things have intersected in my story.
The view from our hotel gate. The white building contains the Blue Sky Cafe, easily Michael’s favorite eating establishment. Anywhere. We probably ate 70% of our meals in Kolkata here. Our waiter there was Chico and he is amazing and we miss him.
We stayed at a British hotel. Complete with tea time each afternoon. Here, Stroope proves to us that he did live in the U.K.
Laundry : one of those things that happens in the street and happens in droves when it rains.
The entrance to Mother House, which serves as the headquarters of the Missionaries of Charity. The room where Mother spent her life and last moments is preserved for posterity. It’s a surreal and holy experience
We ended our time in Kolkata by spending about eight hours in the train station as we waited on our delayed train to Varanassi














































